Nestled down a narrow side street in old Quebec City, there is little to indicate the existence of a World Class restaurant save one tiny sign above the door. Built in 1827, the stone building looks like many others in the historic walled city. Inside that door however lives the utterly fantastic Le Patriarche.
The hand hewn stones that make up the walls become warm and inviting in the soft light, accented with the flicker of candle light. Colourful pieces from local artists hang on the walls next to plaques announcing the room’s CAA/AAA Four Diamond status. That status hinted at the type of the meal we were about to enjoy.
Our evening began with beverages in front of the fireplace, in my case a couple of pints of St-Ambroise Cream Ale. Shortly, we were directed up a narrow staircase to the second floor dining area. Here we found a space defined by bare brick walls with ancient wood trim and windows trimmed in Coyote pelts. Beer was replaced with French red wine, followed by Spanish. The most sublime food experience I’ve ever had was about to unfold.
The concept behind Le Patriarche is to showcase each local ingredient as a trio. Chef Stephane Roth uses locally grown products, combined with traditional French cooking to create dishes that are far more than just sustenance.
My meal started with a dreamy cream of leek and potato soup that was served around a thick dollop of cream. That cream was actually a thick bacon foam that added a gentle smoke to the soup. It was accompanied by a choice of house made rolls. The dense bread was complemented perfectly with the sharpness of the local cheddar and smokey bacon in my selection.
Our palates were cleansed by a scoop of pineapple, mango, vanilla bean and rum granita.
Then came the foie gras. A couple of us were concerned that a trio of foie gras might be just a bit too much. The magnificently presented plate arrived, and we were so blown away that two of us had no choice but to share these morsels with the rest of the table. Starting from the right, we began with smoked foie gras atop duck confit and green onions that awed even those who had never tasted the duckly goodness. Front and centre was a surprise combination of foie gras layered with gingerbread of all things. The beast on the left consisted of pan seared foie grass on top of pulled wild boar that literally melted in our mouths. It was unbelievable.
For my main I chose milk fed veal tenderloin which was most definitely the most tender meat I have ever enjoyed. It was accompanied by a cube of potato gratin and zuchinni cup that was stuffed with red peppers.
The only possible flaw to the evening was dessert and I think the flaw was my own for not following the rules of progression. We began with peppered pineapple and butterscotch ice cream which was incredible. Acting on impulse, I skipped all the way to the left and devoured the white and dark chocolate duo, leaving the Veuve Cliquot Champagne jelly for last. Sadly, the jelly was very acidic and left a taste in my mouth that was less than stellar. One of my dinner guests came to the rescue with a bit of the chocolate cup she wasn’t going to finish and that took the edge off nicely. If I had followed directions, all would have been perfect.
We completed our meals with liquers and then someone suggested a round of Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Having never enjoyed a glass of Blue Label, I had to accept one myself. Neat of course. Perhaps the smoothest scotch I have enjoyed.
Not surprisingly, the menu is not overly inexpensive. Appetizers start at $15 while mains range from vegetarian at $28 to $47 with protein. That being said, the food is so spectacular that they could probably charge more and still fill every seat in the house.
I am fortunate to dine in many restaurants in my travels, usually at someone else’s expense. Le Patriarch is by far the best dining experience I have ever had and I thank Toyota Canada for the opportunity to discover it. I fully intend to return on my own dime as soon as I can!
